The router table and cabinet base are finished. I am now ready to mount a Sears 320.17542 fixed router to a Rousseau router plate. This Sears router was chosen for several reason among them are: one, it was on sale, two, 1/2" collet, three, above plate access to the lifting mechanism. The method discussed here should also work for aluminum plates.
In order to mount the router, a kit from Rousseau can be purchased, but since I had a PC type guide bushing with a 1/4" hole, I chose to purchase the following items from McMaster Carr:
- 98380A556 Dowel pin 1/4"
- 91420A330 Screw flathead M5.8 25mm
- 91217A175 Cone point socket screw M5.8 12mm
- 2739A38 Anti vibration thru-hole countersink, 90 deg., 3/16" - 17/32"
- 2915A22 Drill point countersink 5/64" - 3/16"
Your router may use a different screw size, but equivalent items should be available at McMaster.
A comment should be made before the step by step procedure. Phenolic plastic is very hard and not easy to scratch, so I tried two ways to get the set screws to mark the plate. First, I used a Bessey mini clamp, you can see them on the bench, to press the set screw into the plastic. I did this by placing the metal end of the clamp on the set screw and the handle end above the plate. Then I tightened the clamp. This worked for four of the set screws. Hitting the plate above the set screw transferred marks from the remaining two.
Step by Step
- Remove plastic plate from bottom of router.
- Change to 1/4" chuck and add 1/4" dowel pin.
- Screw cone set screws into base as shown in picture
- Place guide bushing with 1/4" hole in plate
- Position router on bench as shown, with lift lock to front
- Place plate on router face up using dowel pin to center.
- Use spring clamps to hold router base to plate
- Use one of the methods above to cause cone set screws to mark plate
- Remove plate, find marks and enhance with center punch
- Use a small drill or drill point countersink to start hole.
- Drill hole out to screw body drill size, in my case a M5.8, 13/64"
- Turn plate over and counter sink hole using a single flute or thru-hole counter sink to proper depth
- Mount plate to router with flat head screws
- Using a scribe, mark lift hole on phenolic plate
- Drill 1/4" hole in plate and slightly counter sink on top side.
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Router placed upside down on bench. Cone end set screws in place. |
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Closeup of set screw. |
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Guide bushing mounted in 3509 |
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Plate positioned on router. Note 1/4" dowel and guide bushing. |
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Drill point countersink in drill press chuck. |
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Router with plate mounted. |
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Flat head screws in place. Note lifter access hole at front. |
Do I "really" need a Drill Press to drill out the "points" and counter sink the heads ?
ReplyDeleteYou can do it with a hand power drill, but start with a 1/16" drill. The drill press makes it easier to get accurate positioning. As far as countersinking, take tiny cuts so you won't over cut.
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