Thursday, March 29, 2012

Mounting Router to Rousseau 3509 Plate

The router table and cabinet base are finished. I am now ready to mount a Sears 320.17542 fixed router to a Rousseau router plate. This Sears router was chosen for several reason among them are: one, it was on sale, two, 1/2" collet, three, above plate access to the lifting mechanism. The method discussed here should also work for aluminum plates.

In order to mount the router, a kit from Rousseau can be purchased, but since I had a PC type guide bushing with a 1/4" hole, I chose to purchase the following items from McMaster Carr:
  1. 98380A556  Dowel pin 1/4"
  2. 91420A330  Screw flathead M5.8 25mm
  3. 91217A175  Cone point socket screw M5.8 12mm
  4.  2739A38  Anti vibration thru-hole countersink, 90 deg., 3/16" - 17/32"
  5. 2915A22  Drill point countersink 5/64" - 3/16"
Your router may use a different screw size, but equivalent items should be available at McMaster.

A comment should be made before the step by step procedure. Phenolic plastic is very hard and not easy to scratch, so I tried two ways to get the set screws to mark the plate. First, I used a Bessey mini clamp, you can see them on the bench, to press the set screw into the plastic. I did this by placing the metal end of the clamp on the set screw and the handle end above the plate. Then I tightened the clamp. This worked for four of the set screws. Hitting the plate above the set screw transferred marks from the remaining two. 

Step by Step
  1. Remove plastic plate from bottom of router.
  2. Change to 1/4" chuck and add 1/4" dowel pin.
  3. Screw cone set screws into base as shown in picture
  4. Place guide bushing with 1/4" hole in plate
  5. Position router on bench as shown, with lift lock to front
  6. Place plate on router face up using dowel pin to center.
  7. Use spring clamps to hold router base to plate
  8. Use one of the methods above to cause cone set screws to mark plate
  9. Remove plate, find marks and enhance with center punch
  10. Use a small drill or drill point countersink to start hole.
  11. Drill hole out to screw body drill size, in my case a M5.8, 13/64"
  12. Turn plate over and counter sink hole using a single flute or thru-hole counter sink to proper depth
  13. Mount plate to router with flat head screws
  14. Using a scribe, mark lift hole on phenolic plate
  15. Drill 1/4" hole in plate and slightly counter sink on top side.

Router placed upside down on bench. Cone end set screws in place.

Closeup of set screw.

Guide bushing mounted in 3509 

Plate positioned on router. Note 1/4" dowel and guide bushing.

Drill point countersink in drill press chuck.

Router with plate mounted.

Flat head screws in place. Note lifter access hole at front.


  1. Do I "really" need a Drill Press to drill out the "points" and counter sink the heads ?

    1. You can do it with a hand power drill, but start with a 1/16" drill. The drill press makes it easier to get accurate positioning. As far as countersinking, take tiny cuts so you won't over cut.